The long awaited Aikido Shugyo training atop of Kurama Mountain
had finally come. Anticipation for this momentous event had
me fixated on Saturday Febuary 8th 2003 since sometime in
December. I remember Sensei explaining to me that the whole
dojo was expected to participate in this Shugyo training the
weekend of the 8th of February. Besides the seminars we have
back in the States I have never really had the chance to have
an active role in Shugyo training being mainly because I was
not in Japan. The Aikido seminars back home seem to be a type
of response to the special type of training I received atop
of Kurama Mountain here in Kyoto Japan.
The long awaited day had finally come and before I knew it
was I packed and walking to the dojo to meet with other members
before heading to Kurama. The air and temperature really stuck
out in my mind that particular day, somehow it reminded me
of how I used to ride my bicycle to Woodstock Aikido in the
spring time back in upstate NY. While those days may have
been years behind me my memories have lost none of their potencies.
Around 3pm on Saturday we took the local train to Kurama station
where we then proceeded on foot to the near summit where the
temple is. The hike up the rest of the mountain was very pleasant
and beautiful. There are small shrines scattered about the
trail that seem to blend very naturally into the surrounding
environment and I remember thinking to myself at time how
unique this experience is.
After our quest to the temple we came to a small stone triangle
in front of one of the buildings in the temple complex. It is
said that this triangle is the strongest point and the center
of the universe. Because of this believed energy flux standing
on it and praying has become a necessity to visiting the temple
complex at Kurama. After paying our respects to this important
point we proceeded to what looked like a small building to the
left of this triangle. Nothing could be further from the truth
– this building was enormous and seemed to extend far down
that side of the mountain. This fact is not visible to the public
unless you step inside and proceed down the stairs to the left.
Another interesting anomaly to note about this particular building
is that it must have been at least 15 degrees colder then the
outside air temperature.
Following the brief introduction to the temple grounds we proceeded
into the two large tatami rooms that where to serve as our quarters
for the duration of our stay. We proceeded to sit around two tables
in our room for a quick self introduction of everyone and to have
some tea. A short while later we where called to dinner by one
of the monks sounding a drum. We then headed down to a large hall
where diner had been setup. Before the meal there would be a Buddhist
prayer and to signal that it was ok to eat two laminated pieces
of wood where sounded. The meal was natural the vegetarian Buddhist
type, very good food and you could have as much rice as you needed.
Sitting in Seiza was probably the most difficult aspect of my
training. After having dinner we would bring all the dishes and
remaining food to the kitchen, the remaining rice would be turned
into Onigiri (rice balls) and would sometimes include items from
the meal. My job at this time was to dry the dishes as they where
being cleaned. Following a brief pause we started Aikido training
in the same hall we had dinner. This was a new kind of Aikido
training for me mainly because it was conducted entirely on a
solid wooden floor. All sorts of techniques would be done including
throws, rolls, and Suwari waza. As strange as it may sound I am
grateful for being able to practice on such hard wood floors.
After awhile you learn how to adjust to this new environmental
variable and practice is no longer as painful. But I must admit
I have had some prep in getting ready for the hard wooden floors
of the temple. The dojo that I am a member of here in Kyoto has
very hard mats, while not as hard as the wooden floors –
they really can not be considered much of a mat in my mind. For
every two out of three training sessions I leave the dojo with
very bloody knees. While practice might not be as continuous as
Woodstock Aikido, it is nonetheless demanding.
Before going to bed Sensei performed a small tea ceremony using
Matcha a type of powered green tea. Following some conversation
and a brief outline of the day ahead of us we started to get
ready for bed. We all slept on small futons clustered around
two kerosene heaters – normally it takes me a very long
time to fall asleep, this was no exception. I was kept awake
nearly all night from the sounds of people snoring, coughing,
and going to the bathroom. Five AM came much quicker then I
would of liked and just when I was started to sleep. My frustrations
quickly ended as I realized now is the time we have to focus
the most.
We quickly got our affairs in order and headed to the summit of
the mountain where great warriors of the past have attained enlightened
practice. After reaching this famous training ground we arranged
ourselves into a large circle, bokken in hand. Sensei led the
practice by starting off with a Buddhist chant; this is one of
those moments that I thought especially surreal. As we where working
on our breathing listening to the chanting a warm breeze started
to make its way toward us, I remember hearing it approaching with
dread – for it had been raining all night and the idea of
getting soaked after a night of no sleep just did not sit well.
It was a very strange moment, almost as if the wind was responding
to Igo Sensei’s chanting for the very moment it was over
the weather again clamed it’s self. This marked the start
of our sword work, I cant remember exactly how long we had been
there – I just know that I was drifting in and out of consciousness
as I was doing the techniques that had been described. Afterwards
we started to head back to the temple for the morning prayers,
on our way I captured a photo that I think really looks cool.
While I did not see the mist in my line of sight at the time if
you use your imagination a little is does look like someone doing
sword work – however missing a head.
The Morning Prayer was also really special since we had the seat
of honor right next to the monks as they where praying. We quietly
filed in and sat in seiza on the hard wooden floor. Again I felt
myself going in and out of conscious thought as I listened to
the chanting of the monks – perhaps most of this was do to
the lack of sleep but it surly made the whole experience more
surreal. After the prayer I remember standing up was a new challenge
I had no feeling in my legs at all, I remember I was slowly able
to stand but could not walk for another couple of minutes. After
I regained control of my body I made my way back to the training
hall where we would have our morning Aikido lesson again on the
wooden floors that I have come to love. Then breakfast was served
and not a moment too soon, after all this training I was already
very hungry and becoming a little delirious. And after more Aikido
it was now our job to clean the temple before we could leave.
I remember was I was cleaning that some tourists where starting
to make their way up the mountain – I will never forget their
confused faces as they watched my clean a small portion of the
outside of the temple. However my main job was to clean the stone
staircases on the inside of the temple. I really did not mind
at all and used the time to think about the training that I had
just finished. At this point we where ready to leave Kurama Temple
as our day came to a end around three pm. I made the hike down
the mountain alone on purpose – I needed just a little more
time to think about what happened and to convince myself that
it was not a dream; I actually accomplished my shugyo training!
I remain extremely grateful that I was able to participate in
such a momentous event.
